I don't like to get political, but it's time we give Puerto
Rico its due. The US territory located
in the Caribbean often goes ignored, due to its lack of star on our national
banner. For reasons without
justification, Puerto Rico gets less representation and respect than Rhode
Island or Wyoming. Also, how fair is it
to the rest of tax-paying Americans that Puerto Ricans -- whose main export and
cultural contributions to mainland US so far are hot women and superb baseball
players -- enjoy all the perks of being Americans (military protection, cheap
fruits) without any of the drawbacks (terrorism target, European vitriol)?
THE TOP TEN LIST OF
SONGS ABOUT TENNESSEE
The kind folk of Eastern Tennessee have one thing on us
Carolinians and that would be their wide selection of high octane energy
drinks. It's as if Eastern Tennessee is
the dumping ground for every test market or practical joke. I've seen the evolution of the Red Bull can
from 8.4 oz to venti (12 oz) and even one at
32 oz which resembles a titanium baby's arm, but in Tennessee, they
offer one served in a gallon jug sponsored by NASCAR in the cooler previously
reserved for milk. The one I selected
was called Team Realtree and it appeared to be marketed to hunters. On the back of the can boasted a disclaimer:
NOT FOR CITY BOYS which I shouldn't have ignored because after two sips I began
my next horror script complete with bloody miscarriages and plenty of
challenges for the local special effects team.
It felt as if this corner of the country had been set aside as the
variable for some freakish psychology experiment, or at the very least, the
dumping ground for a nefarious test marketing group. Wasn't the first atomic bomb built here/ What else did they cook up in these labs?
Every state has its civil wars. North Carolina constantly battles over which
end of the state serves superior chopped pork.
If Texas were split by barbecue styles, it could house five different
states. Folks from Shreveport wish New
Orleans would secede. But the music
capital of Tennessee has moved from Memphis to Nashville and back again several
times.
Back when music was recorded by field musicians and
traveling recorders, Bristol could very well have been the music capital. After all, this is where the Big Bang in
Country Music happened. But over time,
Nashville came to represent the interests of musicians, due to its proximity
between major markets and the Southerners who made the music that catered to
them. But Memphis' position along the
Mississippi river, between Chicago and New Orleans, made it prime real estate
for music. However, Nashville has always
responded.While most music coming out of Nashville (and all current "country") may be shit, there is still quite a scene down there if you look for it. The Station Inn on Sunday nights has the best bluegrass jam in the nation. The Loveless Cafe -- home to more than just superior biscuits -- has a rather tidy Wednesday show. And whoever the house band at Layla's is will be bound and determined to rock your face off. From here came Th'Legendary Shack Shakers, Joe Buck Yourself, and Slim Chance and the Can't Hardly Playboys. No, don't be scared off by the current shite state of affairs in country. Old time and good music is making a comeback. And Nashville is still Ground Zero.
8. "Queen of the Bell Witch Opry" by
The Pine Hill Haints (no video
available, so check out "The Bell Witch" by Merle Kilgore)
Tennessee is home to one of the greatest ghost stories in
folklore history. While no two accounts
agree, legend has it that John Bell and his family were haunted by what we now
call a poltergeist. Some say Bell was
cursed by a witch, others say it was a slave-owner who had been cheated by
Bell. Regardless, strange shit happened
and even well-known South Carolinian North Carolinian Tennessean Andrew
Jackson was even affected by the Ghost of the Bell Witch when he came to
investigate.
Today, there is a historic marker commemorating the Bell
Witch, as well as the Bell House, and the Bell Witch Cave. The area, just a short drive from Clarksville
and Nashville, is a worthy tourist destination for people who enjoy the weird
and eerie.
As one drives deeper into the mountains of Tennessee, it's
difficult not to note that the roadkill becomes more varied and exotic. I don't think I know what the hell those last
two species were.
"... and there you see it, in some roadside family
restaurant: the lost gaze, the open mouths... eyes long left void and
dull. This one not even bothering to
brush his hair and everyone thanking the Giant Cross in the hills that pants
were more than an afterthought. The
syllables in their diction streeeeetch like string cheese, spaghetti,
mozzarella oozing from fried cheese sticks.
Sing-song, signifying nothing.
And their children -- thankfully tethered -- the next generation all
marching forward, breathing through their mouths, slack-jawed and a touch
tardy, into the 21st century, dazed and diabetic.
Someone in their ancestry moved them here. Early in our nation's history or two months
ago, one. Could that they would, curse
them and all their generations, but the heavy lifting on that end was done some
time ago. And hence, they stay." (written
from the point of view of Calvin Cantrell, the protagonist of DIRTBAGS, soon to be
published)
Another of Tennessee's great contributions to culture is the
Clarksville Writers Conference. The two
day respite in the bucolic riverside town is perfect for both aspiring and
established writers. There is no better
opportunity to wander upon great writers like Tom Franklin or George Singleton,
telling a story over beers at Kelly's on Franklin Street or outside the Riverview
Inn. The conference at Austin Peay
University also gives opportunity to hear query advice from Chuck Sambuccino,
meet with agents or see a proper weeping willow. Nice people run the place and it's not yet
overwhelmed with New Yorkers, which makes it well worth the price of admission.
Memphis: whoa. This
is one of the cities so closely identified with the South, that without it, the
history of the region is forever scathed.
One of the great river metropolises -- between Chicago, St. Louis, and
New Orleans -- it boasts home to a great music and culinary tradition. Without Memphis, there is no Elvis Presley,
no Johnny Cash, no Sun Records, no Jerry Lee Lewis, no Al Green, no B.B. King,
no... you get the picture. While every
country boy with a guitar went to Nashville, every Delta bluesman made the pilgrimage
to Memphis. Blues begat Rock And Roll
here.
And don't forget barbecue.
A hybrid of Eastern and Western, what reigns supreme here is sauce. And ribs.
And dry rub. Where Carolinians
dicker about the cut of the pig or the amount of tomato in the sauce, Memphis
denizens battle over wet or dry ribs. In
my opinion, there is no loser in this war.
If you've never had barbecue spaghetti, you haven't lived.
One of the biggest heartbreaks of the 21st century is the
evolution of Those Darlins. Once, this
quartet of pretty girls and hipster drummer added a punky twang to old time
hills music. They were once described (Iforget who did it) as the output of "The Carter Family being kidnapped by
The Runaways." Their debut album is
timeless. It holds nothing but promise
for a second album destined to be the masterpiece we've all been waiting
for. The music equivalent of Neo from Matrix, Skywalker from the Disney
movies, Jesus from the book in roadside motels.
Pretty girls masterfully adding to the old time pantheon...
what more do you need?Then they went to New York. They became more inspired by the Velvet Underground than The Carter Family. Got more Repo Man than The Johnny Cash Show. Moved out of the barn and into the garage. Don't get me wrong, their music is still better than a lot of music being made these days. And the girls are really, really nice when they're on tour. But they moved in a new direction (and lost member Kelly Darlin) and it doesn't play as well for an old time lover like myself.
Regardless, they will make millions. Don't miss a show if they are playing near
you.
It is almost a holy experience to walk the streets of
Hohenwald and know that one of my favorite writers has probably taken lunch
here or stopped in for a beer. Or to
think that these very same woods may well have been an inspiration for the
Harriken or other worlds in William Gay's fiction. At the foot of the Natchez trace, there is
little to remark that a giant from the pantheon of Southern Gothic once lived
here, and then later died here. I have
no idea how he would have felt about that, so maybe I should go read another
one of his books.
While Tennessee may not have the infectious state pride that
people from say, Texas or South Carolina may have, there is plenty to be
had. I blame most of the lack of civic
boosterism on the nickname. "The
Volunteer State," while steeped in history, is pretty lame. In a land that gave birth to rock and roll,
that is a carnivore's wet dream, produces literary greatness and has
unparalleled natural beauty, it seems they could do much better than "The
Volunteer State." But maybe the
guys who created it spent as much time thinking about it as I did writing this
piece, in which case, we're left to assume "it is what it is," or
"you get what you pay for."
Take my advice: forget the lame nickname and visit Tennessee. There's something to do there beyond what
your issue of Garden & Gun tells
you. I didn't even cover the rich
history and Civil War battlegrounds or douchey restaurants or rich museums...
Maybe next time. But I'll take twenty
Tennessees over one New York City any day of the week.
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